Chikan is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow,
India. Literally translated, the word means embroidery. Believed to have been
introduced by Nur Jehan, Mughal emperor Jahangir's wife, it is one of Lucknow's
most famous textile decoration styles.
There are several theories about the origin of Chikankari.
Chikankari (process of chikan) was basically invented in Lucknow (India). It
developed quickly during the period when Mughals ruled and consisted of style
inspired by Persians. Lucknow in India grew into an international market for
its renowned Chikankari work. There are references to Indian Chikan work as
early as 3rd century BC. by Megasthenes who mentioned the use of flowered
muslins by Indians. There is also a tale that mentions how a traveler taught
Chikankari to a peasant in return of water to drink. However, the Noorjahan
story is the most popular of the lot. The name Chikan has been derived from the
Persian word Chakin or Chikeen meaning a cloth wrought with needlework
Chikan began as a type of white-on-white (or whitework)
embroidery.
Creation of a chikan work piece begins with the use of one
or more pattern blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the ground
fabric. The embroiderer then stitches the pattern, and the finished piece is
carefully washed to remove all traces of the printed pattern.
The patterns and effects created depend on the types of
stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used in the embroidery. Some of the
varieties of stitches used include backstitch, chain stitch and hemstitch. The
result is an open work pattern, jali (lace) or shadow-work. Often the
embroiderer creates mesh-like sections in the design by using a needle to
separate threads in the ground fabric, and then working around the spaces.? It consists of 36 different Stitches in which the major stitches are called in
Lucknowi language as "Bakhiya" "Fanda" "Murri"
"Bijli" "Pechni" "Ghans patti" "Ulti
Jali".
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