Monday, May 13, 2013

Making of Lucknowi Chikan - Chikankari Embroidery Process


There are three stages involved in making chikankari namely block printing, embroidery work and washing. Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is dipped in the colour solution. Then it is printed on the fabric. There will be different blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. The printed fabric is now ready for the embroidery work. The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. Different types of stitches can be made in one product. Washing is the final stage of production process. The fabric after embroidery work is first soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to obtain stiffness. The final product is now ready for the market.
Stages involved in making process are:
1.            Block printing
2.            Embroidery work
3.            Washing

Block Printing: Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is dipped in the color solution which is made by mixing glue and indigo. Then it is printed on the fabric. There will be different blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. In Lucknow, the printing process is done by separate group of artisans who mainly concentrate in printing. The printed fabric is now ready for the embroidery work.

Embroidery work: The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. The artisan creates traditional patterns using different techniques. Different types of stitches can be made in one product.

Washing: Washing is the final stage of production process. The fabric after embroidery work is first soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to obtain stiffness. The final product is now ready for the market.

Highly elaborated work is done using simple tools to embellish beautiful motifs/ designs on plain cloth. Traditionally, the Chikan work has been done only on white cotton cloth. Later, it has been done using various types of clothes to meet the market trend. Types of fabrics like cotton, silk, chiffon, crepe, georgette, wool, orange chiffon are used to do the embroidery work. Cotton thread is traditionally used to create the design patterns over the cloth. Golden zari, silver zari, wool are the types of threads also used to do the Chikankari embroidery. Indigo colour is used in printing process. Cloths are washed by using river water to clear the printing marks. Starch is used to obtain the stiffness for cotton clothes.

Tools like Sui- needle is the important tool which plays a major role in Chikankari work. A circular shaped frame is used to hold the cloth as it obtains tautness. These frames are made with cloth as well as wood as per the need. Wooden blocks are used to print the design on plain cloth. A rectangular wooden table used as support during printing process. Containers are used while washing the cloth after completion of stitching work.There are three stages involved in making chikankari namely block printing, embroidery work and washing. Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is dipped in the color solution. Then it is printed on the fabric. There will be different blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. The printed fabric is now ready for the embroidery work. The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. Different types of stitches can be made in one product. Washing is the final stage of production process. The fabric after embroidery work is first soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to obtain stiffness. The final product is now ready for the market.

No comments:

Post a Comment